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Ikat from Lio, Flores Group, Indonesia

022 Flores Group, Lio

Lawo (sarong)detailmicroscope

Origin: Flores Group, Lio
Locale: Nggela or nearby village
Period: 1925-1950
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, very fine
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 3
Size: 67 x 140 cm (2' 2" x 4' 7")
Weight: 620 g (21.9 oz), 330 g/m2 (1.08 oz/ft2)
Design: Lawo luka semba, of a type called lawo keli mara (presumably on account of the depicted mountain in the top and bottom sections) decorated in classical Nggela patola-like design with jilamprang midfield, and tumpal borders in morinda and morinda lightly overdyed with indigo. Pale indigo accents, in the hearts of the jilamprang and elsewhere. Double, morinda weft.
Comment: [PHOTOGRAPHY PROVISIONAL] Old sarong with impeccable ikat work, in the slightly purplish morinda that is recognizably Nggela. The drawing style, the colour palette, the selvedges and the whole appearance are very similar to that of two Lio men's cloths, semba, in this collection (PC 054 and PC 055), and it may well have been made in the same podo, clan. Impeccable condition with a soft patina that is compatible with light use.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Flores Group and Lio.
Compare: 082 099 203 045 054
Literature: Nearly identical lawo luka semba in Museum für Völkerkunde, Vienna, depicted in Leigh-Theisen and Mittersaksenschmöller, Lebensmuster, Abb. 142. See Dawson, Traditional Indonesian Textiles, Fig. 87, 106, 167. Closely related piece in Hamilton, Gift of the Cotton Maiden, Fig. 10-10.
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