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Ikat from Lio, Flores Group, Indonesia

099 Flores Group, Lio

Lawo (sarong)  magnifiermicroscope

Origin: Flores Group, Lio
Locale: Nggela or nearby village.
Period: 1920-1930
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 3
Size: 69 x 175 cm (2' 3" x 5' 8")
Weight: 710 g (25.0 oz), 294 g/m2 (0.96 oz/ft2)
Design: Lawo luka semba, of a type called lawo keli mara (presumably on account of the depicted mountain in the top and bottom sections) decorated in classical Nggela patola-like design with jilamprang midfield, tumpal borders in two shades of morinda red and two shades of indigo with yellowish background produced with kayu kuning.
Comment: Beautiful sarong adat made for kraing (family of high standing). Exceptional quality. Tight, clear weaving, very well preserved. The local identification of the keli mara, 'Mount Mara', motif is dubious. It is quite possible that this is an ancient motif, perhaps derived from patola or other imported cloths, interpreted as depicting a common feature of the region's landscape. This kind of 'hinein interpretieren' of borrowed motifs is quite common across S.E. Asia.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Flores Group and Lio.
Exhibited: Museu do Oriente, Lisbon, 2014/15. Hong Kong University Museum and Art Gallery, 2017.
Published: Peter ten Hoopen, Woven Languages, 2014
Compare: 045 082 203 022 086
Literature: Nearly identical lawo luka semba in Museum für Völkerkunde, Vienna, depicted in Leigh-Theisen and Mittersaksenschmöller, Lebensmuster, Abb. 142. See Dawson, Traditional Indonesian Textiles, Fig. 87, 106, 167. Closely related piece in Hamilton, Gift of the Cotton Maiden, Fig. 10-10. See also Pusaka Collection Nr. 082, very similar.
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