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082 Flores Group, Lio
Lawo (sarong)  
| | Locale: | Nggela or nearby village. | | Period: | 1950 | | Yarn: | Rayon, fine | | Technique: | Warp ikat | | Panels: | 3 | | Size: | 69 x 174 cm (2' 3" x 5' 8") LW: 2.52 | | Weight: | 690 g (24.3 oz), 287 g/m2 (0.94 oz/ft2) | | Design: | Lawo luka semba, of a type called lawo keli mara (presumably on account of the depicted mountain in the top and bottom sections). Highly intricate patola inspired pattern with finely executed jilamprang motifs in the midfield, and a variety of tumpal-like elements. Small accents in light indigo, such as the cores of the jilamprang motifs. | | Comment: | Lio sarong made for kraing (family of high standing), showing a grandmaster's skills. The challenging jilamprang motifs have been executed in great clarity. Excellent state of preservation. The local identification of the keli mara, 'Mount Mara', motif is dubious. It is quite possible that this is an ancient motif, perhaps derived from patola or other imported cloths, interpreted as depicting a feature of the local landscape. Such 'hinein interpretieren' of borrowed motifs is quite common across S.E. Asia. | | Background: | Chapters on Flores Group and Lio. | | Published: | Ikat Textiles of the Indonesian Archipelago, 2018.
| | Compare: | 099 045 203 022 086 | | Sources: | Nearly identical lawo luka semba in Museum für Völkerkunde, Vienna, depicted in Leigh-Theisen and Mittersaksenschmöller, Lebensmuster, Abb. 142. Very similar cloth in Hamilton, Gift of the Cotton Maiden. Fig. 10-10. Cf. also Dawson, Traditional Indonesian Textiles, Fig. 87, 82, 167. See also similar piece in Pusaka Collection, Nr. 099. | | |
©Peter ten Hoopen, 2025
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