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Ikat from Lio, Flores Group, Indonesia

054 Flores Group, Lio

Semba (man's shawl)  magnifier

Origin: Flores Group, Lio
Locale: Nggela.
Period: 1950
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 1
Size: 55.5 x 146 cm (1' 9" x 4' 9")
Weight: 225 g (7.9 oz), 278 g/m2 (0.91 oz/ft2)
Design: Shoulder cloth, luka semba, with selenda sinda motif: patola style jilamprang designs with tumpal borders: an almost perfect patola imitation in three shades of morinda red and violet black (red with indigo) with a few accents in pale indigo.
Comment: Male ritual leader's shawl, luka semba, to be worn once a year during the four day adat festival. Excellent example of the fine Nggela technique. Very tight weaving, producing strong patterning in subtle hues. Shoulder cloths with patola design were mostly worn once a year by high-ranking men at dances on the occasion of the four day adat feast.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Flores Group and Lio.
Compare: 055 056
Literature: Nearly identical piece from L.A. County Museum of Art, M.77.93.3, depicted in Hunt Kahlenberg, Textile Traditions of Indonesia, Fig. 52. Gittinger, Splendid Symbols, Fig. 128. Khan Majlis, Indonesische Textilien, Wege zu Goettern und Ahnen, Fig. 374 (identified as Ende). Khan Majlis, Woven Messages, Fig. 168. Robyn Maxwell, Textiles of South East Asia, Fig. 23.
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