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spacer ONLINE MUSEUM OF INDONESIAN IKAT TEXTILES   CURATOR: PETER TEN HOOPEN  BROWSE FROM:  [RANDOM] [001] [025] [050] [075] [100] [125] [150] [175] [200] [225] [250] [275] [293]



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GALLERY MICRO PHOTOGRAPHY

Click on thumbnails to enlarge
Note that images are not to scale


spacertree roots

 
Tree roots and vines in the jungle. Photo courtesy Jill Forshee.
Note how natural and organic all the old hand spun material looks, both cotton and silk. The oldest, early 19th c. and before, look like the vines and tree roots underfoot in a jungle. This is a quality that the microscopy brings out, but that is often immediately apparent to the feel of the cloth, and the first visual appearance - though we have repeatedly been surprised to see hand spun thread in old cloth where we had expected to see early machine made thread, Benang Belanda from Dutch factories on Sumatra and Java, or imported from elsewhere, e.g. China.
       This 'close reading' of the cloths in our collection, an ongoing process started in early 2016, is yielding much confirmation of expectation, but also surprises. The variety of thread combinations for instance is greater than expected. We are seeing hand spun thread used singly and double-ply; commercial thread used singly, double-ply, triple-play and even quadruple ply; this paired with single, double, triple, and in once case quadruple weft. We urge you to kindly report any insights or details that we missed.

For reference visit the page with examples of known machine spun thread.



001 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Borneo, Sarawak, 1950

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003 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Roti Group, Roti, 1930

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004 Cotton, commercial, fine, quadruple-ply
Timor, West Timor, 1940-50


005 Cotton, commercial, fine, quadruple-ply
Timor, West Timor, 1950-1960

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006 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Roti Group, Ndao, 1920-40

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007 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Flores Group, Peninsula, Early 20th c.


008 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Roti Group, Ndao, 1920-1940

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013 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Timor, West Timor, 1910-1940

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014 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Roti Group, Roti, 1900-1925


015 Cotton, hand-spun, fine, double-ply. Quadruple-ply weft.
Sumba, East Sumba, Early 20th c.

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024 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Sikka, 1925 or older

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026 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Savu Group, Savu, 1930


028 Cotton, commercial, fine, double-ply
Savu Group, Savu, 1930-1940

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031 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Timor, West Timor, 1940-1950

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032 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Borneo, Sarawak, 1925-1945


033 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Borneo, Sarawak, 1880 to early 20th c.

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034 Cotton, commercial, fine
Borneo, Sarawak, 1925-1950

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035 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Borneo, Sarawak, 1940


036 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Borneo, Sarawak, 1930-1945

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037 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Borneo, Sarawak, 1920-1930

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038 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Borneo, Sarawak, 1880-1920


039 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Borneo, Sarawak, 1940-1950

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040 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Borneo, Sarawak, 1940

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041 Cotton, hand-spun, fine - plus accent stripes in commercial cotton.
Borneo, Sarawak, 1920


043 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Bali Group, Nusa Penida, Early 20th c.

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046 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Bali Group, Nusa Penida, Mid to late 19th c.

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050 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Flores Group, Sikka, Circa 1950


051 Cotton, hand-spun, very fine
Flores Group, Sikka, 1925-1945

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052 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Nage Keo, 19th to early 20th c.

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056 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Lio, Early 20th c.


057 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Sumatra, Batak, Late 19th tot early 20th c.

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058 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Bali Group, Tenganan, Early 1900s

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059 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Bali Group, Tenganan, 1930


060 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Bali Group, Tenganan, 19th c.

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061 Silk, hand-spun
India, Gujarat, 1725-1800

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063 Silk, hand-spun
India, Gujarat, 1750-1800


065 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Sumba, East Sumba, 1920-1940

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069 Silk, hand-spun
Sumatra, Bangka, 18th to mid 19th c.

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072 Cotton, hand-spun, fine, double-ply
Sumba, East Sumba, 1950s


073 Cotton, wheel spun, fine, double-ply
Sumba, East Sumba, 1930-1945

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074 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Borneo, Sarawak, Circa 1940

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075 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Borneo, Sarawak, 1935-1950


076 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Ngadha, Early 20th c.

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077 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Timor, Timor-Leste, Early 20th c.

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079 Lontar fibre or coarse cotton, or mixture.
Moluccas, Tanimbar, 1940


080 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Moluccas, Tanimbar, 1920-1940

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081 Cotton, hand-spun and commercial
Timor, West Timor, 1950-1960

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082 Rayon, fine
Flores Group, Lio, 1950


084 Cotton, hand-spun, fine, double-ply
Flores Group, Ndona, 1930-1945

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085 Cotton, wheel spun, fine, double-ply
Flores Group, Ndona, 1930-1940

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091 Cotton, hand-spun, fine - plus pinstripes in commercial cotton.
Moluccas, Luang, 1925-1940


092 Cotton, hand-spun, very fine, quadruple ply.
Moluccas, Kisar, 1925-1945

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093 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Sikka, 1940 or earlier

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095 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Timor, West Timor, 1920-1940


097 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Flores Group, Peninsula, 1960

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099 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Lio, 1920-1930

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100 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Sulawesi, Toraja, Late colonial


102 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Moluccas, Kisar, 19th c.

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103 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Moluccas, Kisar, Late 19th to early 20th c.

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107 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Roti Group, Roti, 1930-1950, perhaps earlier


108 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Nage Keo, 1900-1925

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109 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Moluccas, Babar, 1890-1930

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110 Cotton, hand-spun, medium - plus accent stripes in commercial cotton
Moluccas, Lakor, 1940


112 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Timor, West Timor, Circa 1910

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114 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Solor Archipelago, Alor, 1920-1940

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115 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Solor Archipelago, Lembata, 19th or early 20th c.


116 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Ngadha, 19th to early 20th c.

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117 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Savu Group, Raijua, 1930-1950.

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119 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Solor Archipelago, Lembata, 19th or very early 20th c.


120 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Timor, West Timor, 1930-1940

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122 Cotton, hand-spun, medium - plus pinstripes in commercial cotton
Timor, Timor-Leste, 1950

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124 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Bali Group, Bali, Late 19th - early 20th c.


127 Cotton, hand-spun, fine, double-ply
Roti Group, Roti, 1940

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128 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Flores Group, Peninsula, 1950

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129 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Bali Group, Nusa Penida, 1950 or before


130 Cotton, hand-spun, medium, and silk
Solor Archipelago, Adonara, Late 19th to early 20th C.

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131 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Solor Archipelago, Lembata, 19th or very early 20th c.

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132 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Timor, West Timor, 1925-1950


133 Cotton, largely hand-spun
Timor, West Timor, 1960

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138 Cotton, largely hand-spun
Moluccas, Kisar, 1900-1925

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140 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Borneo, Sarawak, 1950


142 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Savu Group, Savu, 1950 or earlier

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143 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Savu Group, Savu, 1950

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145 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Savu Group, Savu, 1950


146 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Sumatra, Batak, Early 20th c.

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148 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Solor Archipelago, Solor, 1940-1955

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149 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Timor, West Timor, 1940-1960


150 Cotton, commercial, fine, double-ply
Timor, West Timor, 1970

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154 Silk, commercial, fine
Sulawesi, Bugis, 1950-1960

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160 Cotton, hand-spun, fine, double-ply
Sumba, East Sumba, 1950-1960


161 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Ende, 1910-1930

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162 Cotton, hand-spun, plus pinstripes in commercial cotton.
Timor, West Timor, Circa 1950

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163 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Sumba, West Sumba, Late 19th - early 20th c.


164 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Ngadha, Early 20th c.

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165 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Moluccas, Tanimbar, Circa 1950.

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166 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Solor Archipelago, Alor, 1920-1950


167 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Solor Archipelago, Ternate and Buaya, Circa 1950

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168 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Sumatra, Lampung, 18th-19th c.

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170 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Moluccas, Kisar, 19th C. or older


171 Cotton, commercial, fine, double-ply
Sumba, East Sumba, 1910-1925

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172 Cotton, hand-spun, extremely fine, double-ply
Sumba, East Sumba, 1925-1940

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173 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Moluccas, Tanimbar, 1950 or before


174 Cotton, hand-spun, very fine
Sumatra, Batak, 19th to early 20th c.

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175 Cotton, commercial, fine, double-ply
Savu Group, Savu, 1930-1940

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176 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Timor, West Timor, 1920-1945


177 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Timor, West Timor, 1940-1955

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178 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Solor Archipelago, Lembata, 19th to early 20th c.

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179 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Solor Archipelago, Solor, Ca 1950


180 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Roti Group, Roti, Early 20th c.

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181 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Timor, West Timor, 1925-1950

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182 Cotton, quadruple-ply fine commercial thread
Timor, West Timor, Circa 1950


183 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Timor, West Timor, Late 19th c.

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184 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Solor Archipelago, Pantar, 1925-1950

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185 Cotton, ca. 99% hand-spun
Savu Group, Savu, Before 1950


186 Cotton, double-ply commercial thread
Timor, Semau, Before 1950

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187 Cotton, hand-spun, fine, double-ply
Sumba, East Sumba, 1930-1945

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188 Cotton, hand-spun, fine, double-ply
Sumba, East Sumba, 1930s


189 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Timor, Timor-Leste, 1925-1945

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190 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Ende, Circa 1850 (well before 1888)

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191 Cotton, commercial, fine
Timor, West Timor, 1930-1950


192 Cotton, commercial, fine
Timor, West Timor, 1930-1950

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193 Cotton, wheel spun, fine, double-ply
Sumba, East Sumba, Early 20th C.

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195 Cotton, hand-spun and commercial
Moluccas, Leti, 1930s


196 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Flores Group, Ende, Circa 1930

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197 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Nage Keo, 1900-1925

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198 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Moluccas, Babar, Early 20th c.


199 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Ende, 19th - early 20th c.

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200 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Moluccas, Kisar, 19th c. or early 20th c.

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201 Cotton, hand-spun, single-ply and double-ply
Sulawesi, Toraja, Late 19th - early 20th c.


202 Cotton, hand-spun, double-ply
Borneo, Sarawak, 1940-1950 (?)

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203 Silk, hand-spun, very fine
Sumatra, Aceh, 1800-1850

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205 Silk, hand-spun
Sumatra, Palembang, 18th-19th c.


206 Cotton, commercial, fine, quadruple-ply
Timor, West Timor, 1925-1945

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207 Cotton, hand-spun and commercial
Timor, West Timor, 1920-1940

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209 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Flores Group, Palu'e, 19th c. to very early 20th c.


210 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Lombok, Lombok, 1920

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211 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Flores Group, Peninsula, 1945 or before

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212 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Borneo, Kalimantan, Late 19th - early 20th c.


214 Silk, hand-spun, fine
Bali Group, Bali, 19th to early 20th c.

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217 Cotton, hand-spun, very fine
Sumatra, Batak, Late 19th C.

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218 Cotton, very fine, double-ply. Whether hand-spun or commercial could not be ascertained. See micro-photography.
Sumba, East Sumba, Early 20th c.


219 Cotton, hand-spun, very fine, double-ply. Whether hand-spun or commercial could not be ascertained with confidence. See micro-photography.
Sumba, East Sumba, Early 20th c.

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220 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Borneo, Sarawak, Early 20th c.

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223 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Borneo,  Sarawakm, 1920s


224 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Timor, West Timor, Late 19th to early 20th c.

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225 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse, double ply
Sulawesi, Toraja, Early 20th c.

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228 Cotton, hand-spun, fine, double-ply
Sumba, East Sumba, 1930-1945


229 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Borneo, Kalimantan, Early 20th c.

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230 Cotton, hand-spun, very fine, twice twined
Borneo, Kalimantan, Late 19th to early 20th c.

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231 Cotton, commercial, fine, double-ply
Savu Group, Savu, 1940-1950


235 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Timor, West Timor, 19th to early 20th c.

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237 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Timor, Timor-Leste, 1935-1950

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241 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Sumatra, Kaur, Mid 19th to very early 20th c.


242 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Borneo, Kalimantan, 19th to early 20th c.

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243 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Borneo, Sarawak, 1920 of before

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244 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Timor, West Timor, Early 20th c.


245 Cotton, commercial, fine, double-ply
Timor, West Timor, 1930-1950

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246 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Ende, 1910-1930

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247 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Sulawesi, Toraja, 1930-1945


248 Cotton, hand-spun and commercial
Moluccas, Leti, Before 1911

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249 Cotton, hand-spun, extremely fine, double ply
Sumatra, Batak, Second quarter 20th c.

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250 Silk, commercial
Bali Group, Bali, 19th to early 20th c.


251 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Flores Group, Ngadha, Circa 1950

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252 Cotton, hand-spun, extremely fine
Sumatra, Batak, Early 20th c.

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253 Cotton, hand-spun, very fine
Sumatra, Batak, 19th to very early 20th c.


254 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Savu Group, Savu, Mid 20th c. or before

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255 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Savu Group, Savu, 1940

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256 Cotton, hand-spun and commercial
Timor, Timor-Leste, 1920-1930


257 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Sumatra, Batak, 19th c.

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258 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Timor, West Timor, 1900-1930

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259 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Flores Group, Ende, 1900-1930


260 Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Moluccas, Halmahera, Circa 1900

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261 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Moluccas, Tanimbar, Circa 1900

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262 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Moluccas, Tanimbar, Early 20th c.


263 Cotton, commercial, fine, quadruple-ply to achieve firmness.
Moluccas, Tanimbar, Circa 1950

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264 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Moluccas, Tanimbar, 1950 or before

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265 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Moluccas, Tanimbar, 1950 or before


266 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Moluccas, Tanimbar, Circa 1950

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267 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Moluccas, Sermata, 19th c.

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269 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Moluccas, Tanimbar, Early 20th c.


270 Cotton, hand-spun, coarse
Moluccas, Tanimbar, Late 19th c.

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271 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Moluccas, Romang, 1920-1940

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273 Cotton, hand-spun, medium - plus accent stripes in commercial cotton
Moluccas, Kisar, 1950 or before


274 Cotton, hand-spun, medium - plus accent stripes in commercial cotton
Moluccas, Kisar, Circa 1950

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275 Cotton, hand-spun, medium - plus accent stripes in commercial cotton.
Moluccas, Kisar, Late colonial period.

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276 Cotton, hand-spun, medium - plus accent stripes in commercial cotton
Moluccas, Kisar, Late colonial


277 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Moluccas, Tanimbar, First quarter 20th c. or 19th c.

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278 Cotton, hand-spun, fine, quadruple-ply, loosely twined - plus accent stripes in commercial cotton
Moluccas, Sermata, Late colonial

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279 Cotton, hand-spun, fine, double ply, and commercial thread.
Moluccas, Luang, Late colonial to 1950


280 Cotton, hand-spun, plus pinstripes in commercial cotton. Chemical dyes.
Moluccas, Luang, 1950-1960

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281 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Moluccas, Kisar, First half 20th c.

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283 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Sumba, East Sumba, Ca. 1940


284 Cotton, hand-spun, medium, and silk
Solor Archipelago, Adonara, 19th c.

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285 hand-spun cotton, medium, for the ikated field. Buna in pre-dyed commercial silk.
Timor, West Timor, Early 20th c.

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286 Cotton, hand-spun, extremely fine, quadruple-ply
Timor, Timor-Leste, 1950 or before.


287 Cotton, hand-spun, medium - plus pinstripes in commercial thread.
Timor, West Timor, 1920-1945

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288 Cotton, hand-spun, medium - plus triangles in commercial cotton
Moluccas, Babar, Early 20th c.

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289 Cotton, hand-spun, fine - plus pinstripes in commercial thread.
Timor, West Timor, 1930-1950


290 Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Roti Group, Ndao, 1900-1925

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292 Medium hand-spun cotton for ikated areas, quadruple-ply commercial cotton for accent stripes
Timor, Timor-Leste, 1950 or before

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293 Ikat areas done in fine hand-spun cotton. Odd mixture of double, triple and quadruple ply. Central panel in coarser hand-spun. The fibres look old, with many split filaments. Age given may be too conservative.
Timor, Timor-Leste, 1940-1950


©Peter ten Hoopen, 2017. All rights reserved.