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Ikat from Leti, Moluccas, Indonesia
 

365 Moluccas, Leti


Sarongdetail  magnifiermicroscope


Period: 19th or early 20th c.
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun in all ikated bands, pre-dyed commercial thread in all plain sections and accent stripes (befitting the period).
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 2
Size: 41.5 x 114.5 cm (1' 4" x 3' 9")   LW: 2.76
Weight: 430 g (15.2 oz), 452 g/m2 (1.48 oz/ft2)
Design: The main ikated motifs are of a type called keu in Lautém in the far eastern tip of East-Timor and there stand for high class. Given the proximity of Leti to Lautém it may be assumed that on Leti too this motif is associated with high social ranking. The rows of triangles fitted together in pairs are very common in the Tanimbars (somewhat further east) and there called flags.
Comment: Striking is the similarity of the motifs in the main ikated bands with those in the Leti cloths PC 195 and PC 248. An important difference is that on this specimen the ikat work has (even) better definition, the result of tying with strong hands and good alignment. Pre-dyed commercial yarn came to the South Moluccas very early, and was already observed by Baron van Hoëvell when he inspected the region in 1887-1888.
Background: Chapters on Moluccas and Leti.
Compare: 195 248 375
  
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