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050 Flores Group, Sikka
Utang (sarong)
| Locale: | Maumere area | Period: | Circa 1950 | Yarn: | Cotton, hand-spun, medium | Technique: | Warp ikat | Panels: | 1 | Size: | 70 x 259 cm (2' 3" x 8' 5") LW: 3.70 | Weight: | 785 g (27.7 oz), 433 g/m2 (1.42 oz/ft2) | Design: | This design is called utang jentiu. Intricate motifs, possibly patola-inspired, in white on indigo, bands of small geometrical designs in pink on aubergine, with a few very narrow stripes in warm yellow, green and light blue. | Comment: | Very clear drawing, all natural dyes. Cloth for a sarong, but never cut and sewn into sarong, just laid away, so it looks new. Such a sarong cloth is called utang rewuk. [Image shows one half of the cloth, which would be cut in two and sewn together along a selvedge, then sewn together at the ends to form a tube skirt.) Sikka cloth of above average quality, even though some of the patterns on the half not shown are somewhat askew. | Background: | Chapters on Flores Group and Sikka. | Published: | Ikat Textiles of the Indonesian Archipelago, 2018.
| Compare: | 051 | Sources: | Very similar to sarong in Khan Majlis, Indonesische Textilien, Wege zu Goettern und Ahnen, Fig. 390, also left uncut; and to pre-1940 sarong in Tropenmuseum, Nr. 1772-1142. Also similar to sarong from before 1929 in Ernst Vatter collection, depicted in Barnes, Ostindonesien im 20. Jahrhundert, Page 158, Kat. Nr. 98. See also example in Hamilton, Gift of the Cotton Maiden, Fig. 7-11, identified as utang mitang. | |
©Peter ten Hoopen, 2024 All rights reserved.
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