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280 Moluccas, Luang
Lawar (sarong, warp uncut)  
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| Period: | 1950-1960 |
| Yarn: | Cotton, hand-spun, plus pinstripes in commercial cotton. Chemical dyes. |
| Technique: | Warp ikat |
| Panels: | 2 |
| Size: | 74 x 114 cm (2' 5" x 3' 8") LW: 1.54 |
| Weight: | 435 g (15.3 oz), 258 g/m2 (0.85 oz/ft2) |
| Design: | Numerous wider and narrower ikated bands and stripes, those in hand spun cotton and natural indigo dye alternated with pinstripes in commercial cotton with synthetic dyes. The weaver's control of warp shrinkage (the 'loss' of length as the warp is made to snake over and under the weft during weaving) is examplary |
| Comment: | Made for export to other islands, this cloth was acquired by the first foreign owner with its warp uncut - a delivery practice in the Luang textile trade that according to Khan Majlis goes back to at least the early 20th c. The cloth differs from old style Luang cloths by the absence of wide plain bands between the main ikated band and the extremities. Pale blue weft. While relatively young, this type of Luang cloth is already rare, modern ones being made of commercial yarn exclusively. Ex collection J.B. Lüth. |
| Background: | Chapters on Moluccas and Luang. |
| Exhibited: | Roemer Museum, Hildesheim (1991) |
| Published: | Brigitte Khan Majlis, Woven Messages |
| Compare: | 278 279 |
| Sources: | Brigitte Khan Majlis, Woven Messages, fIg. 315. |
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©Peter ten Hoopen, 2025
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