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Ikat from Bali, Bali Group, Indonesia
 

214 Bali Group, Bali


Saput (hip wrap)  magnifiermicroscope


Locale: Buleleng, probably.
Period: 19th to early 20th c.
Yarn: Silk, hand-spun, fine
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 2
Size: 110 x 115 cm (3' 7" x 3' 9")   LW: 1.05
Weight: 260 g (9.2 oz), 206 g/m2 (0.68 oz/ft2)
Design: Thirteen ikated bands with lozenge motifs in vibrant natural yellow and mauvine purple on cyclamen red background, alternated with bands in silver and gold songket. Wide silver and gold songket borders with tumpal motifs.
Comment: Saput songket endek or kampuh songket endek: hipcloth for men, worn over pants and over larger hip cloth, wastra, at ceremonial occasions. The gold and silk wrapping of the threads used for the songket has partially rubbed off. The yellow dye is clearly kunyit, turmeric, as shown by bleeding into the purple. (Kunyit is water soluble and in moist climates can bleed). The purple is probably mauvine, Perkins violet, the world's first chemical dye, discovered in 1856, which rapidly made its way into Southeast Asia. Curiously, the two identical panels were machine-sewn together, then bordered with old strips of songket. Both panels are undamaged and in immaculate condition.
Background: Chapters on Bali Group and Bali.
Published: Ikat Textiles of the Indonesian Archipelago, 2018.
Compare: 250
Sources: Very similar to 1900-1950 saput in National Gallery of Arts, Acc. Nr. NGA 80.733. Similar to circa 1925 saput in Khan-Majlis, The Art of Indonesian Ikat, Fig. 38. Stylistically very similar to longer and narrower cloth idenfitied as a belt or breast cloth in Khan Majlis, Woven Messages, Fig. 134. Very similar in terms of layout and style to ca. 1925 saput songket in Bakwin collection, Art Institute of Chicago, shown in Khan Majlis, The Art of Indonesian Textiles.
  
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