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213 Flores Group, Krowe
Utang (sarong) 
| | Locale: | One of a group of clans residing in the hills south of Maumere that are often refered to as Iwangée, though they themselves resent this. Krowe is not entirely appropriate either as the people identify only as inhabitants of their individual villages, but at least it is not a derogatory term. | | Period: | 1950-1960 | | Yarn: | Cotton, ca. 99% hand-spun | | Technique: | Warp ikat | | Panels: | 4 | | Size: | 126 x 226 cm (4' 1" x 7' 4") LW: 1.79 | | Weight: | 765 g (27.0 oz), 134 g/m2 (0.44 oz/ft2) | | Design: | Bridewealth sarong of a type called utang wiwir wanan (Ind, kiri kanan, 'lef, right') or utang wata hutung, meaning 'four joined together', refering to the fact that it is made of four panels, a highly unusual number. The width of the panels is 78, 36, 35 and 77 cm. The very complex design, with its numerous narrow bands appears to be associated with snakes, as it is also called lian (alt. nian) lupa, or 'snake-like pattern'. One of the motifs in the wider ikat bands represent crocodiles, some of the others may be patola-inspired. Numerous ikated stripes. | | Comment: | The overall design of utang wiwir wanan with its narrow ikated bands differs markedly from the Sikka design, which has much wider bands carrying the chief motifs. The widest bands here, called ina geté, are decorated with a variety of small motifs including tek&ecute;, lizard; pigan uben, the circular motif seen on some antique plates; jata sel&ecuate;r, spinning wheel; and petan puhun, pineapple flower. Ex collection Georges Breguet. Few known cognates. | | Background: | Chapters on Flores Group and Krowe. | | Published: | Ikat Textiles of the Indonesian Archipelago, 2018.
| | Sources: | Nearly identical to utang in Art Gallery of New South Wales, Nr. 191.2005 identified as Iwangeté Very similar to one in National Gallery of Australia, Nr. NGA 81.1144, depicted in Maxwell, Textiles of Southeast Asia, Fig. 122. Similar to one in Burke Museum, Nr. 2004-123/40. | | |
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