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Ikat from Savu, Savu Group, Indonesia

255 Savu Group, Savu

Ei (sarong)  magnifiermicroscope

Origin: Savu Group, Savu
Locale: Hubi uki moiety.
Period: 1940
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 2
Size: 115 x 165 cm (3' 9" x 5' 4")
Weight: 530 g (18.7 oz), 279 g/m2 (0.91 oz/ft2)
Design: Ei worapi, a type that may be worn by both moieties, woven by Hubi Iki weaver. Two wide bands called hebe with bunga lehu (lehu flower) pattern in ecru on dark indigo, two wide bands in indigo called medi ae (big black). Numerous narrow bands with a variety of patterns including boda. Wide end sections with seven bands called wuru mada. The outermost of the widest of these bands, called lane bella, are decorated with the woke janga motif; the innermost, the lane wo na iki, with a floral motif. The blue ridges of the seam in the middle mark this as a sarong made by a weaver of the Hubi Iki moiety.
Comment: [PHOTOGRAPHY PROVISIONAL] Older example of over-overage quality. The drawing of the complex patterns is very tight. While the main motif in the hebe, the widest ikated band, is traditional, the floral patterning is of European inspiration, showing the influence of Dutch needlework patterns brought to the island by the wives of Protestant missionaries and Ambonese schoolteachers. Sarong was opened up, cloth is shown here folded over.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Savu Group and Savu.
Compare: 009 028 185 255
Literature: Identical hebe pattern shown on photo of weaver preparing dyed warp for weaving in Miep Spee, Een taal van draden unpublished manuscript, 1989, Fig. 44. Similar, in terms of overall type and quality of ikat work to ei depicted in Khan Majlis, Woven Messages, Fig. 437 but here with traditional triple repeat of traditional motif, rather than a European inspired floral motif. European inspiration is seen most clearly in the second widest ikat bands.
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