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234 Roti Group, Ndao
Lafa (shawl)  
| | | Period: | 1930-1945 | | Yarn: | Cotton, hand-spun, fine | | Technique: | Warp ikat | | Panels: | 2 | | Size: | 70 x 153 cm (2' 3" x 5' 0") LW: 2.19 | | Weight: | 575 g (20.3 oz), 537 g/m2 (1.76 oz/ft2) | | Design: | The main motifs, those in the widest bands, consist of (we know this thanks to the keen eyes of James J. Fox) long sections of jilamprang, a Ndao hallmark. The floral motifs are executed in indigo and a warm shade of morinda between brick red and peach. These widest ikated bands all have tumpal finials of a complex design full of movement. All motifs were executed with great fluidity, and unabashed display of virtuosity - while still being restrained, never showy. Note the asymmetry, another Ndao hallmark: of the three pinkish ikated bands with linked curls that create a vine-like effect, two are on the right panel, just one on the left panel. | | Comment: | The microphotography shows rather wildly irregular yarn, which is consistent with early manufacture, either 19th or early 20th c. Within our small group of old Ndao lafa this one stands out by the elegance of its overall design, and the refinement of its detailing. This kind of chic is particular to Ndao and Roti, but other kinds are found on most islands - styles that are very restrained in terms of boldness of design and colour use, and show their class in their detailing. This would normally be associated with nobility, women with time to spare,perhaps even slaves, but on both Ndao and Roti, where Christianity and schooling came centuries ago, clearly was also within the domain of commoners, always out to out-ikat women of the nobility. Whoever wore this lafa was a man of substance, whose wife could compete with the best. | | Background: | Chapters on Roti Group and Ndao. | | Compare: | 006 008 125 290 | | Sources: | Similar to lafa in Khan Majlis, Woven Messages, with six rather than four main ikated band, that is identified as Roti, although its asymmetry points to Ndao as the island of origin. Similar to lafa, also asymmetric, though obviously so, in Tropenmuseum collection, TM-1772-1164 that is identified as Roti, Ndao's larger neighbouring island. Akin to lafa in McIntosh, Thread and Fire, Fig. 7.37, which has a different main ikated motif but similar overal structure and near identical tumpal finials. | | |
©Peter ten Hoopen, 2024
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ONLINE MUSEUM OF INDONESIAN IKAT TEXTILES
CURATOR: Dr PETER TEN HOOPEN BROWSE FROM:
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