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Ikat from Ende, Flores Group, Indonesia
 

233 Flores Group, Ende


Zawo (sarong)microscope



Origin: Flores Group, Ende
Locale: Village unknown, but probably Ende proper.
Period: 1940 or before
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 3
Size: 70 x 166 cm (2' 3" x 5' 5")
Weight: 660 g (23.3 oz), 284 g/m2 (0.93 oz/ft2)
Design: Old sarong belonging to a category called zawo khabi, and of the type zawo zombo so, the characteristic feature of which is that the border pattern is repeated in the bar that divides the central field, or ora. The field is decorated with patolo-inspired lozenges called soké. The symmetrical end panels, singi, are divided by a 'black' band called mita mere, which is actually indigo - that peculiar petrol shade found only in Ende.
Comment: [PHOTOGRAPHY PROVISIONAL] Fine, tight ikat work, and classic, patola-inspired patterning. The sarong has clearly seen some use, but this use has given it a nice patina. The colours are somewhat faded, but less than we often see on sarongs from Ende - where, contrary to the practice in most other regions, festive sarongs are regularly washed. From old Dutch collection.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Flores Group and Ende.
Compare: 190 196
Literature: Near-identical to zawo from around 1900 in Rautenstrauch-Joest Museum, RJM 36554, depicted in Khan Majlis, Indonesische Textilien, Wege zu Goettern und Ahnen, p. 165. Also near-identical to pre-1940 zawo in Tropenmuseum, Nr. TM-1772-1149. Another zawo of similar type, though much younger, in Hamilton, Gift of the Cotton Maiden, Fig. 6-14.
  
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