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Ikat from Sarawak, Borneo, Indonesia

035 Borneo, Sarawak

Pua kumbu  magnifiermicroscope

Origin: Borneo, Sarawak
Locale: Saribas, Iban people.
Period: 1940
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 2
Size: 93 x 214 cm (3' 0" x 7' 0")
Weight: 470 g (16.6 oz), 236 g/m2 (0.77 oz/ft2)
Design: This is the famous Berinjan design, which is occasionally confused with other types given titles like Sempuyong, Rang Jugah and ‘Sepepat’. End borders (dotted rhomboids) probably represent eyes of green pigeon, outer section other birds of unidentified species. One end decorated with unusual faded indigo dashes of unknown significance.
Comment: Pua kumbu with excellent weaving, panels well aligned. According to Kedit a 'very fine execution of the genre'. No chemical dyes in borders. Very fine hand spun cotton. Three very small indigenous repairs. Kedit: 'An excellent example of how Iban weavers combined word-play, metaphors, and patterns to compose a design that makes absolute sense to the Iban mindset but has eluded naïve Western ethnographers.'
Background: Additional information in chapters on Borneo and Sarawak.
Exhibited: Hong Kong University Museum and Art Gallery, 2017.
Compare: 034 036 037
Literature: Gittinger, Splendid Symbols, Fig. 168, Khan Majlis, Indonesische Textilien, Wege zu Goettern und Ahnen, Fig. 686. Also Gavin, The Women's Warpath, Plates 46, 35, 36. Chaddon c.s., Iban or Sea Dayak Fabrics, Plate XVIIk.
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