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Ikat from Sarawak, Borneo, Indonesia

034 Borneo, Sarawak

Pua kumbu  magnifiermicroscope

Origin: Borneo, Sarawak
Locale: Serawak, Iban Dayak (Saribas or Batang Baleh area?).
Period: 1925-1950
Yarn: Cotton, commercial, fine
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 2
Size: 100 x 234 cm (3' 3" x 7' 8")
Weight: 560 g (19.8 oz), 239 g/m2 (0.78 oz/ft2)
Design: This design, which celebrates the trophy head, is known as Tangkai Belulai, and is often confused with the Berasok (Interlocking) design, which also celebrates the trophy head. Intertwined anthropomorphic and zoomorphic figures. One tumpal-like border (top) with unrecognised secondary motif, one border (bottom) with stylised lizards.
Comment: Pua kumbu with highly complex design and intricate borders, executed with great mastery. Narrow red, white and black, stripes in border done in 'toko yarn' denote wealth. All of the ikated parts of the cloth done in very fine hand spun yarn (see microscopic image).
Background: Additional information in chapters on Borneo and Sarawak.
Compare: 035 037
Literature: Similar cloth in Gittinger. Splendid Symbols, Fig. 168. Khan Majlis Indonesische Textilien, Wege zu Goettern und Ahnen, Fig. 681. Gavin, The Women's Warpath, Plates 44, 35, 36. Gavin, Iban Ritual Textiles, Fig. 163. Overall pattern similar to Saribas pua depicted in Heppell c.s., Iban Art, Fig. 50. Lizar motif in Chaddon, c.s., Iban or Sea Dayak Fabrics, Plate XII.
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