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display continued to support resarch | | | |
054 Flores Group, Lio
Semba (man's shawl) 
| | Locale: | Nggela. | | Period: | 1950 | | Yarn: | Cotton, hand-spun, fine | | Technique: | Warp ikat | | Panels: | 1 | | Size: | 55.5 x 146 cm (1' 9" x 4' 9") LW: 2.63 | | Weight: | 225 g (7.9 oz), 278 g/m2 (0.91 oz/ft2) | | Design: | Shoulder cloth, luka semba, with selenda sinda motif: patola style jilamprang designs with tumpal borders: an almost perfect patola imitation in three shades of morinda red and violet black (red with indigo) with a few accents in pale indigo. | | Comment: | Male ritual leader's shawl, luka semba, to be worn once a year during the four day adat festival. Excellent example of the fine Nggela technique. Very tight weaving, producing strong patterning in subtle hues. Shoulder cloths with patola design were mostly worn once a year by high-ranking men at dances on the occasion of the four day adat feast. | | Background: | Chapters on Flores Group and Lio. | | Published: | Ikat Textiles of the Indonesian Archipelago, 2018.
| | Compare: | 055 056 | | Sources: | Nearly identical piece from L.A. County Museum of Art, M.77.93.3, depicted in Hunt Kahlenberg, Textile Traditions of Indonesia, Fig. 52. Gittinger, Splendid Symbols, Fig. 128. Khan Majlis, Indonesische Textilien, Wege zu Goettern und Ahnen, Fig. 374 (identified as Ende). Khan Majlis, Woven Messages, Fig. 168. Robyn Maxwell, Textiles of South East Asia, Fig. 23; National Gallery of Victoria AS35-1984. | | |
©Peter ten Hoopen, 2024
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