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Ikat from Nage Keo, Flores Group, Indonesia

108 Flores Group, Nage Keo

Sada (man's wrap)detail  magnifiermicroscope

Origin: Flores Group, Nage Keo
Locale: Village unknown.
Period: 1900-1925
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 1
Size: 78 x 111 cm (2' 6" x 3' 7")
Weight: 600 g (21.2 oz), 693 g/m2 (2.27 oz/ft2)
Design: Antique Nage sada consisting of a single large panel, decorated with seven wide bands of ikat and several narrow ones.Sada may be used to wrap around the hips, and is then called a sada gea, or over the shoulders, then called sada bhago. These cloths stopped being made early in the 20th century when (thus Hamilton) 'changing standards of propriety dictated that these garments be replaced by tubular [i.e. closed] sarongs.' Sada are woven with richer patterning and more dedication to detail than sarongs.
Comment: Rare old men's blanket. While Nage Keo sarongs do appear on auctions now and then, this is one of only two man's blankets in good condition we ever saw on offer since we began collecting in the mid 1970s. As Hamilton notes: 'A number of these cloths survive in museum collections.' While the design is not as elaborate as our PC 197, certainly this is one the of the finest extant examples of a Ngada sada. One small hole, about the size of a thumbprint, and a tiny tear at one selvedge; about one square foot lightly faded on one side, otherwise fine. From old Dutch collection.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Flores Group and Nage Keo.
Compare: 052 197
Literature: Very similar to early sada in Ernst Vatter collection depicted in Barnes, Ostindonesien im 20. Jahrhundert, Abb. 194. Very similar to early 20th C. sada in Tropenmusem, Nr. TM-1772-1152, though more richly decorated. Also similar to one in Khan Majlis's contribution to Völger and Von Welck, Indonesian Textiles, Fig. 131, erroneously described as panel for sarong - an error which cannot be ascribed to lack of expertise so must be due to a filing error. Very similar to larger sada in Musée d'Ethnographie Neuchâtel depicted in Marval and Breguet, Au fil des îles, No. 78, but proportionally much heavier, and also heavier than our PC 197. Also very similar to perhaps slightly younger, less powerfully designed sada depicted in Hamilton, Gift of the Cotton Maiden, Fig. 5.24. Vatter's cognate below:

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