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090 Flores Group, Ndona
Semba (man's shawl) 
| | Locale: | Village not identified. | | Period: | Circa 1950 | | Yarn: | Cotton, hand-spun, fine | | Technique: | Warp ikat | | Panels: | 2 | | Size: | 120 x 187 cm (3' 11" x 6' 1") LW: 1.56 | | Design: | Two panel shawl called luka semba with geometrical patterns in strong morinda red on black background created by overdyeing of morinda and indigo. Patola style field with finely detailed tumpal borders. | | Comment: | Vintage Ndona of outstanding quality, visually striking, in immaculate state of preservation. Outstanding is, for instance, that the ikated decoration is continuous. In typical Ndona semba (such as PC 083 and PC 084) the centrebar is left blank, as this is the piece of the warp which runs across the warp bar and can not be ikated, other than by special manipulation of the warp - such as done here, in a method common on Sumba. The warp on the frame is shifted down towards the dyer so ties can be placed, then it is shifted back up so that the centrebar falls over the warp bar and the rest of the warp can be tied. | | Background: | Chapters on Flores Group and Ndona. | | Exhibited: | Museu do Oriente, Lisbon, 2014/15 | | Published: | Woven Languages, 2014.
Ikat Textiles of the Indonesian Archipelago, 2018.
| | Compare: | 083 084 | | Sources: | Very similar to semba to in Hunt Kahlenberg, Textile Traditions of Indonesia, Fig. 51. Also similar to piece in Voelger c.s., Indonesian Textiles, fig. 137, 138; and Hamilton, ed., Gift of the Cotton Maiden. Fig. 6-21. | | |
©Peter ten Hoopen, 2024
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ONLINE MUSEUM OF INDONESIAN IKAT TEXTILES
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