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Ikat from Ndona, Flores Group, Indonesia

084 Flores Group, Ndona

Semba (man's shawl)  magnifiermicroscope

Origin: Flores Group, Ndona
Locale: Village not identified.
Period: 1930-1945
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, fine, double-ply
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 2
Size: 113 x 169 cm (3' 8" x 5' 6")
Design: Patola-like field with ten rows of six jilamprang motifs, tumpal end borders. Executed in dark and lighter morinda red with accents - such as the cores of the jilamprang motifs - in fairly light indigo. Overall tone chestnut, tending to russet.
Comment: Excellent and substantial older Ndona cloth in immaculate state of preservation. Note the lateral borders, which in neighbouring Ende stopped being made around 1930, but in more conservative Ndona remained part of the canon.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Flores Group and Ndona.
Exhibited: Museu do Oriente, Lisbon, 2014/15. Hong Kong University Museum and Art Gallery, 2017.
Published: Peter ten Hoopen, Woven Languages, 2014
Compare: 083 090
Literature: Similar to cloth depicted in Khan Majlis, Woven Messages, Fig. 167, identified as Endeh (Ende). It was almost certainly made in the Endenese part of Ndona. Also similar to one depicted in Hamilton's contribution to semba in Nabholz-Kartaschoff, Weaving Patterns of Life, Fig. 4, and to one in Hamilton, Gift of the Cotton Maiden, Fig. 6-21.
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