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Ikat from Lio, Flores Group, Indonesia

056 Flores Group, Lio

Semba (man's shawl)  magnifiermicroscope

Origin: Flores Group, Lio
Locale: Nggela.
Period: Early 20th c.
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 1
Size: 71 x 189 cm (2' 3" x 6' 2")
Design: Selenda sinde motif, patola style jilamprang designs with tumpal borders: an almost perfect patola imitation in brownish yellow (ayar kayu), two shades of morinda red and violet black (red with indigo) with a few accents in indigo.
Comment: Old luka semba, male ritual leader's shawl, to be worn once a year on the four day adat festival. Excellent example of the fine Nggela technique. Very tight weaving, producing strong patterning in subtle hues. An akar kayu kuning bath has provided a warm undertone. Some very slight fraying on one edges, at the fold. A true pusaka. One of the finest pieces known through publication.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Flores Group and Lio.
Exhibited: Museu do Oriente, Lisbon, 2014/15. Hong Kong University Museum and Art Gallery, 2017.
Published: Peter ten Hoopen, Woven Languages, 2014, Carpet Collector 4/2015.
Compare: 054 055
Literature: Nearly identical piece from L.A. County Museum of Art, M.77.93.3, depicted in Hunt Kahlenberg, Textile Traditions of Indonesia, Fig. 52. Similar cloths in Gittinger, Splendid Symbols, Fig. 128; Khan Majlis, Indonesische Textilien, Wege zu Goettern und Ahnen, Fig. 374 (identified as Ende, perhaps because this is where it was acquired); Khan Majlis, Woven Messages, Fig. 168; and Robyn Maxwell, Textiles of South East Asia, Fig. 23.
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