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Ikat from East Sumba, Sumba, Indonesia
 

019 Sumba, East Sumba


Hinggi (men's blanket)  magnifiermicroscope



Locale: Probably Melolo
Period: 1940s or early '50s
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, extremely fine, double-ply
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 2
Size: 110 x 265 cm (3' 7" x 8' 8")   LW: 2.41
Weight: 1030 g (36.3 oz), 353 g/m2 (1.16 oz/ft2)
Design: Hinggi in hondu kappit construction with hidden asymmetry in the centerfield. Coat of arms guarded by crowned lions, clearly inspired by old Dutch heraldry as seen on old coins, medallions and official insignia, regarded as symbols of prestige by the Sumbanese royalty. A sceptre between the two coats of arms. Various animals, such as monkeys and cockatoos. Beautiful patola style tumpal border with bright brick red and bright indigo. Mid section with patola ratu motif, inspired by the Indian trade cloths that the VOC distributed among the royalty to buy loyalty.
Comment: Hinggi maramba, i.e. hinggi for the highest classes with classical Sumba motif in an unusual styling. Execution tight and clear, heavy cloth.
Background: Chapters on Sumba and East Sumba.
Exhibited: Museu do Oriente, Lisbon, 2014/15.
Published: Woven Languages, 2014.
Ikat Textiles of the Indonesian Archipelago, 2018.
Noble Virtuosity: Hidden Asymmetry in Ikat from Sumba, 2024.
Compare: 065 071 072 073
Sources: Cf. overview of patterns, such as lions with sceptre pattern, coat of arms, patola ratu, monkeys and cockatoos in Fraser-Lu, Handwoven Textiles of South-East Asia, Fig. 244. Bands with rearing lions and coats or arms and central band with patola ratu motif similar to hinggi for nobility in Khan Majlis, Indonesische Textilien, Wege zu Goettern und Ahnen, Page 100.
  
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