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Ikat from East Sumba, Sumba, Indonesia
 

336 Sumba, East Sumba


Hinggi (men's blanket)  magnifiermicroscope



Locale: Kambera
Period: Circa 1920
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, very fine, double-ply
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 2
Size: 127 x 246 cm (4' 2" x 8' 0")   LW: 1.94
Weight: 820 g (28.9 oz), 262 g/m2 (0.86 oz/ft2)
Design: Hinggi in hondu wallah construction, i.e. without longitudinal replication in the constituent panels (twice a labour expensive as a standard hinggi). Field divided in seven bands, with a very wide centre field, kundu duku, decorated with an array of eight-pointed stars and diamonds. The widest bands carry two rows of figurative motifs: mounting lions (inspired by Dutch heraldry) and roosters, with shrimp, unidentified birds, sandstrikers (aka seaworms) and snakes as fillers. The outermost morinda red bands again show mounting lions, the innermost, bordering the midfield, show finely drawn riders, presumably an allusion to the equestrian pasola festival.
Comment: The drawing is unusually crisp. The high contrast gives the cloth a strong presence. Remarkable is the stylised rendering of the larger mounting lions and the roosters - bold and confident. The early dating is supported by the very low specific weight, resulting from the use of very fine hand-spun yarn, a hallmark of 19th and early 20th c. Sumbanese ikat.
Background: Chapters on Sumba and East Sumba.
Published: Ikat from Timor and its Outer Islands, 2022.
Noble Virtuosity: Hidden Asymmetry in Ikat from Sumba, 2024.
  
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