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Ikat from Luang, Moluccas, Indonesia

279 Moluccas, Luang

Lawar (sarong, warp uncut)  magnifiermicroscope

Origin: Moluccas, Luang
Locale: Unidentified.
Period: Late colonial to 1950
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, fine, double-ply, and commercial thread.
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 2
Size: 73 x 153 cm (2' 4" x 5' 0")
Weight: 655 g (23.1 oz), 293 g/m2 (0.96 oz/ft2)
Design: Numerous wider and narrower ikated bands and stripes, those in hand spun cotton and natural indigo dye alternated with pinstripes in commercial cotton with synthetic dyes. The lozenge-shaped main ikated motifs recall the kaif motifs of Timor.
Comment: Made for export to other islands, this cloth was acquired by the first foreign owner with its warp uncut - a delivery practice in the Luang textile trade that according to Khan Majlis goes back to at least the early 20th c. The cloth differs from old style Luang cloths by the absence of wide plain bands between the main ikated band and the extremities. While relatively young, this type of Luang cloth is already rare, modern ones being made with synthetic dyes and commercial yarn exclusively. Ex collection J.B. Lüth.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Moluccas and Luang.
Exhibited: Roemer Museum, Hildesheim (1991)
Published: Brigitte Khan Majlis, Woven Messages
Compare: 278 280
Literature: Depicted in Khan Majlis, Woven Messages, Fig. 313.
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