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Ikat from Iwangete, Flores Group, Indonesia

213 Flores Group, Iwangete

Utang (sarong)

Origin: Flores Group, Iwangete
Period: 1950-1960
Panels: 4
Design: Iwangete bridewealth sarong of a type called utang wiwir wanan or utang wata hutung, meaning 'four joined together', refering to the fact that it is made of four panels, a highly unusual number. The width of the panels is 78, 36, 35 and 77 cm. The design, with its numerous narrow bands appears to be associated with snakes, as it is also called lian lupa, or 'snake-like pattern'. One of the motifs in the wider ikat bands represent crocodiles, some of the others may be patola-inspired. Numerous ikated stripes.
Size: 126 x 226 cm (49.6 x 88.9 in)
Weight: 765 g (134 g/m2)
Yarn: Cotton, ca. 99% hand-spun
Comment: Iwangete is a clan living in Sikka area, but with a characteristic own style. The overall design of utang wiwir wanan with its narrow ikated bands differs markedly from the standard Sikka design, which has much wider bands carrying the chief motifs. The widest bands here, called ina geté, are decorated with a variety of small motifs including tek&ecute;, lizard; pigan uben, the circular motif seen on some antique plates; jata sel&ecuate;r, spinning wheel; and petan puhun, pineapple flower. Ex collection Georges Breguet. Few known cognates.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Flores Group and Iwangete.
Literature: Nearly identical to Iwangeté utang in Art Gallery of New South Wales, Nr. 191.2005. Very similar to one in National Gallery of Australia, Nr. NGA 81.1144, depicted in Maxwell, Textiles of Southeast Asia, Fig. 122. Similar to one in Burke Museum, Nr. 2004-123/40.
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