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Ikat from Roti, Roti Group, Indonesia

127 Roti Group, Roti

Pou (sarong)  magnifiermicroscope

Origin: Roti Group, Roti
Locale: Village unknown.
Period: 1940
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, fine, double-ply
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 2
Size: 60 x 107 cm (1' 11" x 3' 6")
Weight: 355 g (12.5 oz), 276 g/m2 (0.90 oz/ft2)
Design: Jilamprang, patola-inspired motifs, occupying the centre of a dark indigo field filled with elaborate floral elements, including flowers in vases, and diverse other motifs derived from the patola model.
Comment: Older 'lima varna' sarong made for woman of the nobility with strong drawing and tight weaving. Cloth has a soft, well worn feeling. Absence of lateral bleeding of the yellow dye proves that it has been ikated, not tamped in after the weaving as is often done by dealers to imitate the look of a royal cloth. Applying yellow dyes after the weaving always produces not just the normal longitudinal bleeding due to the capillary action of the yarn, but lateral bleeding as well.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Roti Group and Roti.
Published: Carpet Collector 1/2016
Compare: 014 180
Literature: Patterning similar to that on sarong for woman of the nobility in Khan-Majlis, Indonesische Textilien, Wege zu Goettern und Ahnen, Fig. 445.
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