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Ikat from Bali, Bali Group, Indonesia

124 Bali Group, Bali

Kain cepuk  magnifiermicroscope

Origin: Bali Group, Bali
Locale: Tabanan / Kerambitan area most likely.
Period: Late 19th - early 20th c.
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Technique: Weft ikat
Panels: 1
Size: 78 x 256 cm (2' 6" x 8' 4")
Design: Very long kamben cepuk, named kamben cepuk cendana kawi, with patola-inspired jilamprang motif: a whole jilamprang on the central axis flanked by two half ones. In two shades of morinda red, dark and pinkish, with accents in purple and pale indigo. Elaborate borders that look like a double pointed tumpal.
Comment: Old pusaka, heirloom. Excellent, tight weaving. Material somewhat brittle. Two holes in lateral border close to selvage, and a few tiny ones elsewhere, not affecting the field. The great length of this piece speaks volumes about the technical mastery of the weaver who managed to continue the complex patterning over such a long distance without jarring.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Bali Group and Bali.
Exhibited: Museu do Oriente, Lisbon, 2014/15
Published: Peter ten Hoopen, Woven Languages, 2014
Literature: Very similar to long examples from the Holmgren and Spertus collection in National Gallery of Arts: NGA 2000.826, described as from Bali or Nusa Penida and dated 19th to early 20th c, and NGA 2000.819, dated 19th c. and made in Tabanan. Basic structure conforms to that of Buleleng as shown in Nabholz-Kartaschoff's contribution to Gittinger's To Speak with Cloth, Fig. 14 on p. 188. Two nearly identical cepuk cloths, both identified as Tabanan, Kerambitan, in Hauser-Schaeblin c.s., Textiles in Bali, Fig. 8.1 and Fig. 8.12. Another similar cepuk, nearly as long, in Gittinger, Splendid Symbols, Fig. 106. Type description in Nabholz-Kartaschoff's contribution to Völger and Von Welck, Indonesian Textiles, p. 124. Side border lozenges similar to those on example in Museum für Völkerkunde, Basel, IIc 13956.
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