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Ikat from Ngadha, Flores Group, Indonesia

116 Flores Group, Ngadha

Lue (blanket)  magnifiermicroscope

Origin: Flores Group, Ngadha
Locale: Probably Lopi Jo.
Period: 19th to early 20th c.
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, fine
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 2
Size: 120.5 x 202 cm (3' 11" x 6' 7")
Weight: 690 g (24.3 oz), 283 g/m2 (0.93 oz/ft2)
Design: Lue jara of a type known as kain kudu, 'horse cloth', with motif for high-ranking man: fifty-six white, angular horses (jara) on indigo background. Some additional geometrical ornamentation and rows of smaller horses along longitudinal borders. Four narrow accent stripes in red end yellow.
Comment: Ngadha shawl, lue jara, for nobleman of the class that can afford a feast involving buffalo slaughter. Piece of rare quality with attractive, primitive design. Very good weaving, well above common Bajawa standards. Beautiful indigo tone. Fine hand spun, accent stripes in benang toko. The white is actually pale blue, due to the Ngada practice of repeated steeping in the indigo bath for such long periods that some seepage of dye into the tied parts of the yarn occurs.
Background: Additional information in chapters on Flores Group and Ngadha.
Exhibited: Museu do Oriente, Lisbon, 2014/15
Published: Peter ten Hoopen, Woven Languages, 2014, Carpet Collector 1/2015
Compare: 076
Literature: Near-identical 19th C. lue in Granucci, Art of the Lesser Sundas, Fig. 101. Another near-identical cloth in Khan Majlis, Woven Messages, Fig. 162. Similar lue in Yoshimoto, Ikat, Fig. 109. Similar motif on Ngadha sarong in Gisela Voelger c.s., Indonesian Textiles, Supplement by Khan Majlis, Fig. 125, and on Pusaka Collection Nr. 076. See also Roy Hamilton, Gift of the Cotton Maiden, p.104-105, and Fig. 5-16.
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