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Ikat from Tenganan, Bali Group, Indonesia

059 Bali Group, Tenganan

Kamben geringsing, ritual shawldetail  magnifiermicroscope

Origin: Bali Group, Tenganan
Locale: Tenganan Pegeringsingan, Bali Aga people.
Period: 1930
Yarn: Cotton, hand-spun, medium
Technique: Double ikat
Panels: 1
Size: 38.5 x 178 cm (1' 3" x 5' 10")
Design: Geringsing pat likur isi. Black on ecru. Three mandalas, reminders of Indian influence on Hindu Bali, represent sanggar (house temples) and cupu (sources of holy water). Other motifs include asu (dog) and si gading (flower offering). The sanggar motif is near-identical to the lobeng motif found on Troso Jepara ikat shawls from Troso Jepara in north-central Java. As the Bali Aga descended from nobles of the East-Javanese Majapahit empire, clearly this pattern was imported by them from their heartland, which covers Troso Jepara near Semarang.
Comment: Excellent, rare piece of advanced age. A few small holes, as is common for older geringsing, but very good condition overall. The original source most likely is much older than the Majapahit period, witness fragment of a Liao (11th C.) textile from Taiwan or southeast China, below. The central motif here is flanked by phoenixes. Note that ikat was introduced in Nusantara from Taiwan.

Background: Additional information in chapters on Bali Group and Tenganan.
Exhibited: Museu do Oriente, Lisbon, 2014/15
Published: Peter ten Hoopen, Woven Languages, 2014
Compare: 058 060
Literature: Khan Majlis, Indonesische Textilien, Wege zu Goettern und Ahnen, Fig. 328. Nearly identical piece in Maxwell, Textiles of South East Asia, Fig. 13, and in Maxwell, Sari to Sarong, p. 172-173. Also in Yoshimoto, Ikat, Fig. 3; and in Tropenmuseum No. 1772-1454, depicted in Van Brakel c.s., A Passion for Indonesian Art; as well as in Dawson, Traditional Indonesian Textiles, Fig. 80.
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